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Routes in Aiguille de Roc

Children of the Moon L'Integrale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, 18 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 192 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jan Rous on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

fantastic long climbing on a very featured and sticky alpine granite. This route has it all, cracks, thin face climbing and smearing, wandering alpine pitches.

The hardest was P17 with very thin but very well protected face climbing on very small holds.

Protection

Bolted anchors. Face moves are protected by bolts, otherwise use gear. All moves protect very well.

Photos

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Jan Rous
Boulder, CO
 
Jan Rous   Boulder, CO
 
Also re protection. I have felt that either you can put the gear in or there's a bolt that reasonably protects face moves. The bolts seemed well placed (not too far apart) and I remember that some of the crux moves were bolt protected even if there was potential for gear placement. Jul 7, 2017
Jan Rous
Boulder, CO
 
Jan Rous   Boulder, CO
 
Hey, thanks for the feedback. When I was entering this I was relying on the rough conversion & how the route felt to me. I had done most of my granite slab climbing in Yosemite and 5.10a felt like an appropriate rating. That said I don't feel too strongly about it and I can uprate to match the standard conversion.

I should edit the route description to say that crux moves are well protected which was the intent - I did not feel like there was too much run-out technical terrain when I've done the route.

Would you be okay if I incorporated your comments into the overall description? Jul 7, 2017
kenr
5.10c
kenr  
5.10c
The first 9 (or first 8) pitches make a rather nice shorter route of similar difficulty and quality - (Children of the Moon inferieur) - (page 138 in the M Piola guidebook English version) ...

Close to the hut (though substantial uphill on the approach).
With fairly straightforward rappel descent.

Good for the last day at the hut Refuge de l'Envers, with an early start ... to allow time to get back to the hut and re-pack and hike/scramble out down (and up) to Montenvers in time to catch the last train of the day. Jun 21, 2017
kenr
5.10c
kenr  
5.10c
Keep in mind that "cracks" means laybacks -- with not many jams with hand or fingers.
. . (so train lots of endurance on laybacks before you arrive).

But lots of toe jams. Make sure your foot-jamming game is way good, and you're confident to press up with full body-weight supported on a high toe jam with no real jams or holds for the hands or fingers.
. . (and recent practice so that your feet are accustomed to the pain).

First pitch or two have lower-friction rock surface than many other routes in the Envers -- I guess from the action of thousands (millions?) of years of occasional flowing water. And more vertical + less-positive features, trickier to read. Jun 21, 2017
kenr
5.10c
kenr  
5.10c
The most popular recent French-language guidebook shows four pitches rated 6a+ (not just 6a).
The description on the leading French website c2c shows two pitches 6a+

French 6a+ is normally converted to 5.10b (at least).
Also keep in mind that the guidebook author was / is a brilliant granite slab climber, so don't be surprised if you feel that you've run into some rather thoughtul 5.10c
(and consider that difficulty on a style of granite your feet might not be familiar with).

Note that some of the clipping stances for bolts are "reachy" -- like it's a serious stretch to connect the quickdraw at 5ft6in (168 cm) height with normal "ape index" reach. A leader with any less than that, might better bring some special equipment for making reachy clips.
. . also some of the crux sideways face moves are pretty tough with less reach than that (so perhaps the route developers matched the two?)

Of course the claim (currently in the Description above) that "every move" is well-protected is simply false. Like on most multi-pitch routes, the crux moves (for leaders accustomed to that style of rock) might indeed be well-protected ...
but nobody hauled up the weight up to that altitude or spent the time drilling bolts to protect lots of moves or sequences a bit less difficult than the crux of a pitch. Jun 21, 2017
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Can you please add where the climb is located, how to get there? Oct 4, 2016