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Routes in Riddle

CatDog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldstone's Riddle T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sundogs S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop. Circa 2015. (Ground Up)
Page Views: 142 total, 9/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jul 17, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

If you've sent Waste Knot and Knob Goblin here is your next project.

One of the best things about this route is the rock it is located on. The rock is bombproof, bulletproof and of exceptional quality. Everything you grab and step on is solid.

The second best thing about the rock is its location, ten minutes of hiking on an easy trail and you're thee. Aspiring hard men and hard women will seek this one out. With this route you can warm up on Goldstone's Riddle, rap down, preplace draws and then top rope and headpoint until competency and fitness are achieved.

The millennials are going to want to be able to lead at their limit. The interesting thing about this climb is the tricky business is found somewhere between the ground and somewhere above the third bolt. With enough practice and rope work a newly minted intermediate climber with a body meant for glory - but a head space meant for easier climbs - would be able to pull the rope and have a top rope set up at the third bolt. And with enough practice and persistence they could then go through the second, eventually the first, and then, when they are good and ready, they could finally start their lead from the ground, without draws already hanging, and safely send. If you are an aspiring 5.11 leader who has crushed a bunch of routes lower in the grade range, you should think about the tenants of outdoor safety, since this is a route that demands a perfect athletic sense of balance and strength. There is a good chance that you could fall anywhere on the route.

But worry not, another good thing about the route is the bolting which is definitely Needles style, just taken down a notch. The climbing from the ground all the way to the anchors is sustained, engaging, quite pumpy and if you've never climbed the grade before this route might make you poop your pants just a little. It does ease off just before the anchors but expect most moves on the route to be steep, most of the big holds will be slopey and most of the really good holds will be crimps.

Think about moving right, to holds right of the bolt line, when you get towards the top. This is where the holds appear to go left, but the climbing goes right.

This route will allow someone to gradually up the challenge and better their game. Which is exactly what we need now at Custer State Park. The age of the explorer is over, and the age of the athlete has begun.

Location

The bolted line between Goldstone's Riddle and the obviously Superman climb known as Sundogs which has its first bolt very far off the deck. CatDog is closer to the hiking trail, a bit farther up the slope than Sundogs, and starts on slightly less steep terrain with a few more bolts at the beginning.

All you gym climbers should rejoice. GET ON IT!

Protection

Take ten quickdraws.

Photos

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