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Kung Fu Hustle

5.13b, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Peder Groseth, July 2016
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > West Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Description

The improbable looking face right of Bold Line. Begin with the first bolt clipped and immediately start into the delicate, yet powerful crux. Summon your Shaolin mind control and command your feet to the blank wall as you slap up the arete. Next, battle two tiny pockets, one so sharp it would bring a single tear to Hattori Hanzo's eye. Float left to the slot hold at the second bolt where you meet up with Body Karate. Congratulations, you've just mastered the most difficult climbing in the Lower Gorge; now continue sparring your way to the chains on the 2nd hardest route.

Location

Directly right of the start to Bold Line/Body Karate.

Protection

8 bolts to chains

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
[Hide Comment] Sick! Good work Peder! Jul 30, 2016
[Hide Comment] This route is interesting in that the opening boulder requires a skill set akin to climbing on the Tuff--mad pocket finger strength and straight stab power--while the upper crux on the original Body Karate is the quintessential Gorge technique problem.

Even though the crux pockets are a tad sharp, this line is a pretty cool addition to the gorge, given that there are only just barely enough holds for all the features to link together naturally and into a single cohesive line. Not to mention this part of the wall was the single hole in route density for the Wildfire wall, and all along it had many challenging and unique lines embedded right in front of us.

I'm pretty sure an independent, direct finish would go from the Kung Fu Hustle start straight up the face/right arete and into the moderate corner above. This line would likely be comparable to or harder than Kung Fu Hustle and justify its own anchors under the roof at the top of the corner. In September of 2015 I did some initial cleaning of this line but never installed anchors or attempted the moves. Feb 18, 2017