AI1-2 Steep Snow
Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7000 ft (2121 m), Grade III|
|FA:||1963 By Allen Steck and Bob Tripp|
|Page Views:||4,108 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||Daniel S on Jul 15, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Ascend the glacier taking a path to minimize your overhead objective hazards that can include serac collapse induced avalanches, normal avalanches, and rock fall. Once at the head wall, several options are available to exit the glacier and summit Mt. Shasta. Option one is to take the "Hotlum Left Ice Gully", option two is to climb the Head Wall directly (5.8), or option three is to take the "Hotlum Right Ice Gully". Alternatively, you can exit the Hotlum glacier early and ascend the Hotlum-Bolam ridge to the climbers right to avoid harder technical climbing.
Depending on the variation you take and current conditions, exiting the glacier at the head wall, the head wall, or the ice ramps may be the crux of the climb. Sometimes one can carefully walk up the ice ramps, other times, you might feel compelled to pitch them out.
Once at Brewer Creek Trail (7,200 ft.), follow it South West to West to the base of Hotlum Glacier.
Note, depending on where you chose to bivy (optional but recommended), you may or may not have access to water. We choose a creek just left of a small glacier pond near the terminus of Hotlum Glacier (10,100 ft). There was no water in Brewer Creek at the trail head. Something to consider if doing a two-day trip.
Descend the Wintun-Hotlum or Hotlum-Wintum Ridge.
Stop by the Fight Season climbing shop in Mt. Shasta to get your permits and the "Mount Shasta Climber's Review" topographical map and route summaries. You will be glad you did.