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Routes in Lower Great Face

Anchor Baby T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beside The Seaside T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Buttress/5.7 start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Closed Casket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
DuMais Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Green Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hobbits Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Pyramid Scheme S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ramshorn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Regions T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Kelly & Gordon Laurens (Sept. 20, 2015)
Page Views: 95 total, 6/month
Shared By: Rich Kelly on Jul 15, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a variation on Left Center route that diverges left part way up pitch 2 of it. Solid enjoyable and well-protected climbing.

P1. Do either start to Left Center.

P2. Start up P2 of Left Center, but when you get to the base of the crux stemming flake/corner, move up and left (crux), and continue straight up obtuse, right-facing corner heading toward a prominent roof (fairly sustained 5.8-9). 20' or so below the roof, look for a way to move left. Move left 20' or so, and set up a hanging belay (rope drag was bad for me at this point and I had little gear left - it is a long pitch), 170'.

P3. Climb straight up eventually to a ledge. Move left on ledge to get up to and into a hanging, right-facing corner (5.8). Follow this corner and the easier ground above it to the top (this will require simul-climbing 20-30' or so) or find a convenient spot to break up this pitch, 200+'.

Location

Start the same as Left Center route (left of Wizard's Gate).

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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