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Pescadero

5.9, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 34 votes
FA: Kelley Gilleran , Matt Franklin
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Bowman Valley > Fun House

Description

Water polished slab with some thin sections near the 3rd and 4th bolt.

Location

Located between two dark water streaks. 2nd route from the left.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. Easy to set TR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Harumpfster Boondoggle
Between yesterday and today.
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Closer to 5.10a than 5.8 in its current polished state (ie at least 5.9+). Careful to second bolt on polished stone. Mussies added courtesy of ASCA. Jun 18, 2019
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Thanks Tut! Jun 18, 2019
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
5.10
[Hide Comment] I agree with HB, in that this is seems pretty hard and to me was more of a 10 than an 8. Interesting moves and for me a bit reachy. Jul 8, 2019
Nick Andrew
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Adding another vote to team 5.10. This was slick and tougher than any 5.9 at Bowman/ Emeralds in my opinion. Jul 20, 2019
Kelley Gilleran
Meadow Vista
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Hey guys!

Thanks for the feedback. Apparently the water has polished this climb up a ton since the FA. I'll change the grade to .10a for now. Jul 20, 2019
[Hide Comment] At first glance it does appear harder than 5.8, with the obvious line going up just left of the bolts, and we made a number of false starts over there. However, there are a series of very positive holds and nice feet to the right of the bolt line, bordering on the black streak. My partner and I agreed that even though these were a little wet, the climbing was right about in line with the other 5.8s. It also is very very fun, and clipping from this line is trivial. Excellent! May 18, 2020
Chris Douglas
Citrus Heights, CA
[Hide Comment] Climbed today, good anchors. Everything enjoyable and safe Jul 29, 2023