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Tweaky Shit Traverse

V3, Boulder,  Avg: 2.8 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
New York > New York City > Central Park > Rat Rock > E Face

Description

Starts on hold next to flake, then move to flake.. Throw left hand all the way to the left hand hold of tweaky shit.. Flag really hard and fall into with right hand (crux). A lot of fun! No use of small island, feet must stay on wall. V3

Variation: start on left of tweaky shit on the holds that are the rat rock Dyno then use any holds and the small island to get into tweaky shit V2

Location

Rat rock, starts to the left of tweaky shit

Protection

Spotter

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

East face rat rock.. Pic found online
[Hide Photo] East face rat rock.. Pic found online

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Katz
New York, NY
  V3+
[Hide Comment] Also possible to use a heel or toe on the flake, to help reach the right-hand crimp before gaining the rail, though then bringing your foot over becomes more difficult.

The traverse in from left definetely adds quality as well. Very cool. Jul 16, 2016
Dan Katz
New York, NY
  V3+
[Hide Comment] This can also be done by off-routing the left-hand side-pull, and instead using the worse hold directly underneath it. Done this way, I think the climb starts to feel V4. Oct 18, 2020
James Fontaine
NYC
  V3
[Hide Comment] Beta m.youtube.com/watch?v=OBIq8… Apr 30, 2023