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Routes in Gold Finger Rock

Odd Job T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 227 total, 13/month
Shared By: Trevor. on Jul 10, 2016
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is a fun route on good rock in a great location. It starts with friction slab, followed by sustained edging on protruding crystals, and crack climbing. The bolts are spaced enough to make things a bit spicy without being overly dangerous.

Pitch 1: Start up the toe of the West Face of Goldfinger Rock, clipping spaced bolts for about 50m to a two bolt belay at a decent stance. This pitch is a foot workout!

Pitch 2: Continue up above bolted belay, clipping ~4 bolts, and then work your way up the wide crack on the left. I wouldn't have minded having a #5 to protect the offwidth, but if you're solid on wide climbing you'll find it pretty secure and easy. As you climb up the crack, it gets thinner and eventually peters out, at which point you transfer right to another crack which leads to the summit.

I built a gear belay with large nuts/cams at the top, or you can sling blocks. There may be bolts on top of the summit block; I can't say for sure since we stopped 10ft short of the true summit.

Location

From FS402, turn onto FS402G, drive a ways and then turn left on the first left option, and take this to the end of the road. Hike to Goldfinger Rock's West Face following the written directions in the online PDF guidebook or my GPS track.

The route starts at the lowest point on the west face of Goldfinger Rock.

To descend, we walked(on belay) to bolts on the south shoulder of the summit, which allowed us to double rope rappel back to the bolts atop p1. There may be bolts on the true summit to rap down the east side, we didn't climb the summit block.

Protection

Single Rack from #0.3 to #3 Camalot with an optional #5 if you aren't psyched on running it out up a wide crack. I placed a couple of offset brass nuts on the second pitch but they're not necessary. 12 or so draws for the bolts.

Photos

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