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Routes in Falaise de la Colombière

Bois Joli S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
L'Annee des 13 Lunes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Les Forçats S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Les Gaugistes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Litteul Kevin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tchau Godillio S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 40 total, 2/month
Shared By: Richard Hunter on Jul 10, 2016
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

P1 40m 5c / 6a Difficult vertical start to slab.
P2 35m 6a splendid pillar.
P3 37m 4c inclined slab grooves (Cannelure is the local term of art).
P4 45m 4a inclined slabs grooves. Pull right early.
P4 ' 20m II aim for the tree above, then the wall in the center you'll cross some scree, be careful with lose rock, especially if there are parties below.
P5 25m 5c + vertical crack.
From there, two choices are available:
P6 right 35m 5c crack and dihedral right and left chimney
P7 right 38m 5b stiff slab. Initially, immediately to the right. The exit is to the right on leaving the slab.
or :
P6 left 6a + crack/dihedral short, though not obvious.
P7 left 5c pretty cannelured slab.
P8 left 4c cross to the rappel station.

Location

Start the approach from behind the Restaurant Columbiere, follow the nice paths until you hit a barn-like structure then head right, follow paths leading up to the third (rightmost) major pillar on the cliff.

Protection

Sport, 12 draws, supplement with a few cams if you like.

Photos

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