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Routes in Clint Eastwood Wall

2 Mules S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cimmaron S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Harry S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fido Betto S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Josie Wales S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lightfoot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Make My Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Play Misty S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sanction S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunderbolt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 359 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Jul 9, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April Details

Description

This is a really fun route with cool movement found between Sanction and Cimmaron. The route starts up steep but juggy rock for the first three bolts, then the crux is encountered as you pull over onto a short slabby section on small holds right at the third bolt. After a good rest, continue up on decent holds for a couple more bolts through a second steep section, then finish up with a long easy slab to the anchors.

Location

This route is located between Sanction and Cimmaron. Start on obvious undercling pinch at the lip of the first small roof right off the ground.

Protection

10ish bolts to 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.11b
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.11b
I was told by some people climbing this route today that they had heard it is rated 5.11c/d. Maybe I was having a low gravity day, but it felt more 5.11b-ish to me.

I have replaced the original crappy hardware on this route with good 1/2" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the steep section and 3/8" by 3 1/2" powerbolts in the slabby section. I didn't have time to replace the last bolt or one of the two anchor bolts, so make sure you are clipped into the left anchor bolt and don't fall on that last bolt (not that it would be very easy to do considering how easy the climbing is). I'll get up there to replace those last two bolts sometime, but at least the route is now safe.

To whoever bolted this route: you really need to get with someone who knows what they are doing and learn some of the bolting basics before you try to put up anything else. Feel free to contact me if you want some instruction. Jul 9, 2016

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