PRINT: Rock Climb Franklin's Tower, West Idaho

Franklin's Tower

5.8, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > W Idaho > Pins And Needles > Pins > Northern Pins > Terrapin

Description

Short and Sweet! This is a fun climb that starts with smearing and mantling up a boulder, then up the tower full of honeycomb-looking shuteye chickenheads. Super fun climb, great for beginners and novice leaders. Could also be started from behind the boulder, but where's the fun in that? 60m rope ok on this one.

Location

This route is not pictured in the online guidebook but is fairly obvious given the plethora of shuteye chicken heads and that it looks like a tower with a face on it. You can find it on the South East corner just to the North of the routes pictured in the book

Protection

3-4 quick draws, long runner for the first bolt to reduce rope drag if starting on the ground. Two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Franklin's Tower

Jen on toprope

SPOILER ALERT: Franklin's Tower, features galore

13 yo son top roping Franklin’s Tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TroyFrisk

5.8

This route can be done with a 50m rope. Jul 5, 2017

Mark Stoeckl

5.7+ PG13

Interesting and fun must-do route in the area. PG-13 as per the scary start up the boulder. Although easy slab climbing, a fall here would be difficult to spot due to a large rock, a tree, and the slope at the base. If your head isn't on straight, cheat the start or bring a bouldering pad. The rest is a little runout; though plenty of options for holds, I didn't trust everything that I could have used (broke off a similar crystal the same day on "Fall Line"). Oct 2, 2019

Troy Frisk
Portland, OR

I second the PG-13. The boulder problem start is tricky even with the 'cheater' twig, which is eventually going to give. Plus you're forced to run a double length runner off the first bolt to reduce the kink once you finally transition to the wall.

Theres a wind tunnel effect on this route that definitely adds some excitement at the top. Apr 10, 2020

Bob Moseley
Boise, ID

5.8

With a nod from the FAist, we added two bolts to the lower slab making for a safer direct start to the ledge, negating the need for the funky chimney bypass on the right side. There are now 6 bolts total on the route. Aug 15, 2023