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Routes in The Convent
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Buddha's Delight T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Choir Boyz T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Girls Gone Wild T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Middle Way, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Odyssey of Idiocy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ PG13 |
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Renate Goes to Eleven T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Value of Audacity, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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West Face Dihedral T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Whore House T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Earl Wiggins, George Hurley |
| Page Views: | 1,773 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Boyce on Jul 9, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Described in Desert rock, unknown grade, single pitch (obviously not, but only p1 anchors visible from below). Turned out to be a really fun route with some splitter climbing, though it is a bit dirty as its probably only been climbed a handful of times. It is the obvious massive dihedral on the very north end of the west face of the convent.
P1 80 ft 5.9 Some easy blocky terrain leads you up to a splitter number 1 crack. jam the crack up to the good ledge with old bolts (easy to back up).
P2 5.10- 110ft Wide hands splitter with a couple squeeze pods to start it out, straight up to a stance with a bolt and pin in a pod (can be backed up easily).
P3 5.10 110ft Possibly the dirtiest section of the climb, but not that bad. Up multiple finger cracks to a crux bulge with good jamming above. The crack gets wide but easy toward the belay. 3 bolt belay on the outside of the chimney.
P4 5.8 80ft Easy chimney up unprotected to where to chokes down, continue deep in the chimney and squeeze behind a chockstone. Belay off a boulder on the ledge to your right.
P5 5.10 60 ft Choose your choss. I think the original line went straight up into the stembox to follow the natural line, but it looked really muddy so we opted for a cleaner looking option off the ledge on the right. Up a short squeeze/ow with some surprisingly engaging moves, turn left on the ledge and up a really short and really easy corner. Gear belay.
P6 5.7 60 ft Again, many options, a splitter number 4 crack looks appealing, we went out left a ways to a corner with an easy hand crack. tree belay.
Descent: Rap choir boyz with a single 70
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