Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jason Stevens, Virgil Ash
Page Views: 872 total · 12/month
Shared By: clive curson on Jul 9, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent route with a couple of steeper sections in an apparent slab. Climbs the face opposite Bullets and I Say Ouday. Very worthwhile.

This route was originally a one-pitch route. Jason and Noah Stevens added two additional pitches on 12.9.17. A 70M rope is required.

P1: Climb the steepest 5.6 on earth to anchors.

P2: From the anchors, take two steps up and right into a pod. Continue right round a rib and clip the anchors on a project route. Continue right, climbing bolts up a rib and through a vertical section right of an overhang. 5.7 40'

P3: This pitch requires a 70M rope. Climb low angle rock and huge cobbles up the corner of the formation to a three anchor belay station located 20' short of the true summit. If you want to stand on top, continue 20' to the true summit where a single bolt will protect you while you enjoy the views. 120', 5.2. Rap the route.

Variation:

If you want to avoid the crux on the second pitch, climb unprotected easy rock above and slightly left of the anchors. Be careful to not kick any loose rock down on your belayer. Stay in a shallow gully and make your way to a two bolt anchor on the wall right of a huge flat-top platform. Belay your partner to this station, then clip up and right out to the corner and follow the bolt line to the summit.

Location

The route is about 15' left of Bullets over Baghdad. When you start I Say Ouday, it is 12 - 15m behind you.

Protection

About 8 - 9 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos