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Whistler's Mother

5.10b R, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson
Tennessee > Sunset Park > Sunset South > n. Giant's Niche

Description

Climb the blocks on the left side of the vertical gully. Master a bulge (crux) and move up to a very thin and completely runout face (2nd crux) for the last 20 feet or so. Unprotected jug haul for the last 5-10 feet. Very heady lead. Clean path through lichen on both sides shows the way.

Location

Start 10' right of Blonde Ambition (30' right of the Giant's Niche). Use rap rings at the top of Blonde Ambition to descend.

Protection

Gear to 2", but most of the gear will be under 1 inch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TobyTowne
Dalton, GA
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Crux is protected well with a blue tcu in a pocket. Then it's 5.8-9 thru the ~20ft runout. (Could probably place another TCU- yellow or blue- in the diagonal but you don't have a good stance.) No ground fall potential unless something goes horribly wrong May 22, 2022
Jon Winsley
Oxnard, CA
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] More like PG-13 than R. Jul 28, 2024