Kings and Desperate Men
Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in Rogers Slide
|Bill Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Crucible of War, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Grand Game, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Kings and Desperate Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Little Finger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Little Finger Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Matrix Reloaded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Matrix, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Parallel Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Screaming Matrix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Screaming Meaney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tom Rosecrans & Erin Rosecrans Nov 2007|
|Page Views:||806 total, 48/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016|
DescriptionWe only did the first two pitches, but they were "gem".
Start - The book ("Adirondack Rock") starts the climb at the lowest point of the tree ledge, about 35 ft down to the right of "Crucible", but I remember starting a bit further left and then traversing right into the climb (below ?) the first bolt. Probably to get protection before the first bolt.
P1 - Climb the friction slab past 6 bolts to a fixed anchor. 5.8 / 5.8+ 170 ft I remember being glad I had a small wire brush to remove any "dusty rock & lichen" for the crux moves.
P2 - Continue up past 2 bolts to the fixed anchor at the far right end of the large overlap. 5.6 G/PG 110 ft
We then rapped off.
Adirondack Rock continues:
P3 - Moves over the overlap at a bulge and a bolt to a fixed anchor. 35 ft 5.8
P4 - Climbs the black streak to the top past a bolt and a crack to a fixed anchor. 130 ft 5.6
LocationThis climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."
Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.