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Routes in Rogers Slide

Bill Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Crucible of War, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grand Game, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kings and Desperate Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Finger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Finger Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Matrix Reloaded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matrix, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Parallel Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screaming Matrix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Screaming Meaney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Rosecrans & Erin Rosecrans Nov 2007
Page Views: 806 total, 48/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

We only did the first two pitches, but they were "gem".

Start - The book ("Adirondack Rock") starts the climb at the lowest point of the tree ledge, about 35 ft down to the right of "Crucible", but I remember starting a bit further left and then traversing right into the climb (below ?) the first bolt. Probably to get protection before the first bolt.

P1 - Climb the friction slab past 6 bolts to a fixed anchor. 5.8 / 5.8+ 170 ft I remember being glad I had a small wire brush to remove any "dusty rock & lichen" for the crux moves.

P2 - Continue up past 2 bolts to the fixed anchor at the far right end of the large overlap. 5.6 G/PG 110 ft

We then rapped off.

Adirondack Rock continues:

P3 - Moves over the overlap at a bulge and a bolt to a fixed anchor. 35 ft 5.8

P4 - Climbs the black streak to the top past a bolt and a crack to a fixed anchor. 130 ft 5.6

Location

This climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."

Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.

Protection

Std rack

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
My guess...you were the 2nd, 3rd or (at most) 4th party on that upper pitch. Rosecrans has quite a good "head" (i.e. P1 of Little Finger Direct, plus a host of other routes here-there-and-everywhere in the semi-backcountry of the 'Dacks.) Glad you liked the lower section..I thought it really nice.

Did you have a wire brush? It's pretty std equipment when venturing into these little-to-never-climbed climbs. Aug 20, 2017
Aeon Aki

  5.8 R
Aeon Aki    
  5.8 R
P1 of this route is pretty real deal. While all of the information above is accurate, I failed to realize that 6 bolts in 170' means 30' of climbing between each bolt. Expect long runouts on pure friction for the first few bolts where ground fall is possible (though it may be so low angle that you could cheese-grate yourself to a halt before decking).

The final pitch had a full coat of dirt making it impossible to climb with any degree of enjoyment. I down climbed the entire pitch about 40' shy of the top anchors in utter disgust. If you can manage a power washer up to this point, it will be well used.

Rack is 6 draws and 1 or 2 finger-sized cams + PAS for the bolted anchors. Aug 19, 2017