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Routes in Rogers Slide

Bill Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Crucible of War, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Grand Game, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kings and Desperate Men T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Finger T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Little Finger Direct T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Matrix Reloaded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matrix, The S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Parallel Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Screaming Matrix T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Screaming Meaney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Rosecrans & Robert Livingston Nov 2007
Page Views: 204 total · 11/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Adirondack Rock (at least the 1st Ed'n; I don;t have the 2nd yet) gives this climb a 5.6+, but MntPrjct doesn't have that grade available, so I put it in at 5.7. The book also lists it as "PG" but unless I missed a placement I'd give it an "R/X". I found nothing until the bolt.

START - 40-50 ft down from the high point of the tree ledge, "behind" a pine tree.

P1 (Var) - Up some small corners (gear ???) then the slab past a bolt and then 2 or 3* more bolts. Belay on a ledge to the left (fixed gear) 140 ft 5.7 R/X [ * My sketch notes indicate a total of 4 bolts on the pitch.]

P2 - Continue up easier rock to the fixed anchor at the right end of the large overlap above. 70-80 ft 5.5

P1 - Variation (Top Rope) The unprotected line 15 (+/-)ft left of the bolted route offers nice climbing in the 5.6 range from the P1 anchors. These anchors may also be reached with an easy traverse from the gear anchor at the top of P1 of Tone-Bone Tennys / The Grand Game.

Descent - Rap the route

Location

This climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."

Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.

Protection

Draws The Guidebook indicates "small gear" can be placed before the first bolt.

Photos

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