The Crucible of War
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tom Rosecrans & Robert Livingston Nov 2007|
|Page Views:||204 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016|
DescriptionAdirondack Rock (at least the 1st Ed'n; I don;t have the 2nd yet) gives this climb a 5.6+, but MntPrjct doesn't have that grade available, so I put it in at 5.7. The book also lists it as "PG" but unless I missed a placement I'd give it an "R/X". I found nothing until the bolt.
START - 40-50 ft down from the high point of the tree ledge, "behind" a pine tree.
P1 (Var) - Up some small corners (gear ???) then the slab past a bolt and then 2 or 3* more bolts. Belay on a ledge to the left (fixed gear) 140 ft 5.7 R/X [ * My sketch notes indicate a total of 4 bolts on the pitch.]
P2 - Continue up easier rock to the fixed anchor at the right end of the large overlap above. 70-80 ft 5.5
P1 - Variation (Top Rope) The unprotected line 15 (+/-)ft left of the bolted route offers nice climbing in the 5.6 range from the P1 anchors. These anchors may also be reached with an easy traverse from the gear anchor at the top of P1 of Tone-Bone Tennys / The Grand Game.
Descent - Rap the route
LocationThis climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."
Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.