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Routes in Mt. Tyndall

Atop The Northwest Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Rib T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Northeast Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyndall Effect, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, Grade III
FA: Cameron Burns and Steve Porcella, June 12, 1989
Page Views: 477 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jul 7, 2016
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the northeast corner of the peak and begins in a chimney system that splits after several pitches, forming a distinctive "Y" shape a few pitches up.

Begin by scrambling up several hundred feet of 3rd and 4th class on good rock on the left of the chimney to one of several small stances where the rock gets vertical.

Climb to the right of the chimney initially, but soon cross over and climb good edges and cracks on the left side. Belay in an open ledgy area of the chimney on the left at 150 feet.

From here climb about 400 feet of low to mid 5th class climbing, staying left at the fork in the "Y" after 100 feet. There's a bit more loose rock in this section.

Continue up as the terrain rolls over to 3rd and 4th class with the occasional bit of low 5th. In this section the best climbing (and exposure) is found on climbers left, close to the edge of the face.

The last 100 feet or so to the summit ridge get steeper and can be dealt with many ways. Mid 5th class options are straight ahead, and easier climbing is to the right.

Once on top of the ridge head southeast to the summit.

Protection

Stoppers, single rack to #3 BD

Photos

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