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Routes in Knob Lock

JW T WI3+
Knob Lock Chimney WI4
Magic Line WI4 M5
Too Tight for Pleasure WI4 M3
Unexpected Pleasure T WI4+
Waffles and Fried Chicken WI3 M5
Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dennis Luther, Tom Yandon, & Edmond Yandon Jan 1986
Page Views: 277 total, 16/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 7, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

OK, OK I know it's listed in the guidebook ("Blue Ice", Don Mellor) as NEI 4 [ WI 4] but the guide also implies the crux is the chockstone whereas the twice I've done it I thought the upper pitch 2 was clearly both more difficult and more sustained.

P1 - Start with a short ice step, then climb the (mostly snow) gully that narrows to a deep cleft with a chockstone blocking the way. As the guide states...find your [ mixed ] "unexpected pleasure" as you climb past this and then up left to a belay at a large tree.

P2 - Climb the right-facing corner (rock pro) and then balance over right to the final ice.

Rap the route ( 3 raps with single rope, last rap off of a small tree in the gully...or downclimb instead of doing the short 3rd rap...or take 2 ropes)

Location

Hopefully there will be tracks to the base. If not, look for the short, easy flow that leads into a snow gully; all just to the right of, and 80-100 ft below, the big flow of JW (which often doesn't touch down)

If you start up something and you don't run into the chimney & chockstone about 100 ft up, you're in the wrong place.

Protection

Bring wire nuts and cams (small & medium) and alpine draws, especially for P2

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