Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dennis Luther, Tom Yandon, & Edmond Yandon Jan 1986|
|Page Views:||277 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jul 7, 2016|
DescriptionOK, OK I know it's listed in the guidebook ("Blue Ice", Don Mellor) as NEI 4 [ WI 4] but the guide also implies the crux is the chockstone whereas the twice I've done it I thought the upper pitch 2 was clearly both more difficult and more sustained.
P1 - Start with a short ice step, then climb the (mostly snow) gully that narrows to a deep cleft with a chockstone blocking the way. As the guide states...find your [ mixed ] "unexpected pleasure" as you climb past this and then up left to a belay at a large tree.
P2 - Climb the right-facing corner (rock pro) and then balance over right to the final ice.
Rap the route ( 3 raps with single rope, last rap off of a small tree in the gully...or downclimb instead of doing the short 3rd rap...or take 2 ropes)
LocationHopefully there will be tracks to the base. If not, look for the short, easy flow that leads into a snow gully; all just to the right of, and 80-100 ft below, the big flow of JW (which often doesn't touch down)
If you start up something and you don't run into the chimney & chockstone about 100 ft up, you're in the wrong place.