Type: Trad, Alpine, 360 ft (109 m), 4 pitches
FA: FA: Tris Taratino & Greg Gavin (7/2013) FFA: Greg Gavin & Ross Miller (7/5/2016)
Page Views: 563 total · 9/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Jul 6, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Hey get a job you Jibroni!

This route takes a line on the far left side of the Hyperform Wall beginning on the large trundle ledge just left from the top of the Book of Rhymes. North facing, and isolated this route makes for a good hot day excursion or alternative to the more crowded routes on the summit walls.

Pitch 1) Climb the first pitch of Book of Rhymes via a 50m pitch of jugs, and cracks. (5.8)

Move belay up and left onto trundle ledge finding the fixed knife blade to locate the start.

Pitch 2) Ascent the right facing thin finger crack passing the spooky guillotine flake which sounds disconcertingly hollow, but is stable (aided on the FA). Pull the roof on fingers continuing upward over another roof on hands. Romp up 5.6 jugs moving right into a large corner. Move left passing the potato chip flake stepping down to the belay ledge. Belay takes 1"-4" pieces - (5.10b)

Pitch 3) Climb the left facing finger and crack crack using the arete for progress periodically. Surmount the corner, and move left across the slab aiming for a hand crack on the left wall of a right facing corner. Belay of trees - (5.10a/b)

Pitch 4) Scramble up the remaining low 5th class to the summit ridge. Belay off 3-4" pieces or trees. (5.2)

Descent via Hyperform or contour below the ? wall, and come down Collins Highway.

Location

Up and left from the Book of Rhymes in no mans land. Other potential routes exist in the area of Jibrones highway so get after it!

Protection

Standard rack from nuts to #4 camalot. Small Purple micro cams work well on pitch 2.

No fixed anchors

Photos

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