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Routes in Beaver Brook

Almost Rectum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Old Guy Shootin' Powder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Save a Tree, Eat a Beaver S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Royce Van Evra
Page Views: 135 total, 8/month
Shared By: perrotr Perrot on Jul 6, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A must do. Physical climbing with two significant cruxes.

Climbs up the off-vertical face/slab for 30 feet which gets you to a rest/stance on the left side of the massive overhang. Traverse right under the overhang on a horizontal system, and exit right to a ledge/stance. Climb up easier terrain to a big ledge below a second roof/bulge. Pull the roof, and climb up to the fixed anchors.

It's a good idea to extend your draw on the bolt at the good rest/stance below the 1st big overhang. There can be nasty rope drag on this climb higher up since it zig zags.

Location

2nd line of bolts at the cliff. Starts to the right of "Old Guy Shootin' Powder".

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Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Great climb. The other 10s at this cliff are also definitely worth doing, despite their lack of stars in the book..... Sep 12, 2016