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Routes in The Gut

Gut it Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: David Bruneau/Thom Smith (?)
Page Views: 82 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jul 6, 2016
Admins: Phil Stennett

You & This Route


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Description

Great rock quality and the climbing is a lot of fun, but wait a few days after significant rain as the route seeps. The swell plays a big factor on the route as the approach is close to the water line.

In any event, climb the crack past a hole, through a squeeze chimney/roof section then up easier flakes to the top. Offwidth technique and laybacking are useful at various points.

Once you bring your second up, you can unrope and climb 3rd class ledges rightwards for a long ways until it feels safe to scramble up to the main trail.

Location

To the right of the main Gut Wall, there is a very wide, arching crack up a slightly positive wall.

Protection

Protects pretty well. Sparse rack to #3 camalot, 1x #4, #5, #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The blue big bro could be replaced by a very tipped out number 6 Camalot and supplemented by a small nut a few feet below. Lots of anchor opportunities, I used a #1 and .75 camalot and a pink tricam immediately above the climb.

Bring lots of long slings and bump your #6

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