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Routes in Palmer Gulch

Keelhaul T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mr. November Too T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. October Also T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spicy Thai Tuna T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Yak Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mike Cronin and Mike McNeil
Page Views: 292 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Jul 5, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is a stunning splitter that I eyed a couple of years ago when we did a route right next door. It starts out with a 100ft of easy climbing with a short 5.7 crux. You can set up a belay on a nice ledge before the second pitch crux. The second starts out with a easy slab to a tricky dihedral that leads to a really cool roof with a interesting tongue of rock at the lip. You then get into the meat of a really steep hand crack that is a-typical needles crack climbing where you really need jam not only your hands but your feet too. At the end of it you get to a huge flake that Cronin slung right before the roof that finishes the pitch. The next pitch is a long one that goes through a tight constriction and may be 5.9 at the hardest and you can end on a nice gravel platform 150ft. The last pitch may not be 5th class but is cool and tops out the route 60ft 5.3.

Location

Route is on the southwest face of Harney. Walk off to the east and then down the gulley. Tough walk.

Protection

It definitely takes a full range of gear. I would take doubles to a .75, triples to a 3, two 4's and 5's, and a six. One rope.

Photos

Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
 
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
 
Gotta, say that Cronin did a great job on the crux. I had been wanting to do this route since I saw it a couple of years ago when doing some other routes in the area. We did Spicy Thai Tuna which joins with it at two thirds height so I knew the chimney would go. It took everything I had to not show some really good photos of this route. The new book did not have it listed so it piqued my interest even more. It may have been done before but who cares as it is a hell of an adventure. I am going to call it 5.11 as I had to hang on with a TR on the second pitch when there was a perfect hand crack, and I know Mike had to give it everything he had to hang in there for the send when he is a climber that doesn't fall at that grade very often.

This route takes some effort to get to no matter how you get there but you will be rewarded with some great climbing and even more potential. Jul 5, 2016
Sounds like a sweet route! Cool to hear that you guys are still roping up together. Jul 6, 2016
Nice work gentlemen! Jul 8, 2016

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