Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Battle Rattle

5.8, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2 from 7 votes
FA: Unknown this ascent Derek DeBruin, John Fisher, Dan Newman
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Snowbasin > Mt Ogden

Description

This route ascends directly up the northeast face of Mount Ogden. It features more continuous climbing than that found on the "Gray Slabs." Engaging movement, good shade in the afternoon, and a direct line make this a good test piece for the 5.8 leader.

Begin atop the scree/talus pile of the apron below the NE face (around the buttress right of the Gray Slabs). Start right of a large right-facing corner and left of a chossy-looking ramp that angles up and right.

P1 low 5th 80 ft:
Wander up for about 50 on beautiful polished, compact rock, picking the line of least resistance through terrain with spaced out protection. Angle up and right to the base of a left-angling ramp under an overhang. Switchback left up the ramp and belay at the apex of the ramp in a short right-facing corner on finger size gear. Check out the old bong piton while you're at it.

P2 5.8 130 ft:
An awesome pitch! Step left off the belay around the corner to good pro in a short crack. After this, head up and slightly left on super fun crimps, edges, and dishes. A few small pieces lead to a bolt, followed by a short right-facing flake/crack. From the crack, begin trending right to another bolt. Continue up and right to a bolt at the small overhang. Pull the overhang and head straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring plenty of small gear.

P3 5.7 130 ft :
Reasonably fun climbing, but still pretty dirty. Head up the face aiming for the right side of a small tree. Past this tree, trend up and leftward, passing a small roof through its weakness on the right. Finish on a spacious ledge under the shade and security of a large evergreen and belay.

P4 5.7 60 ft:
Walk across the tree ledge and climb the short, clean face to the tree ledge just above. A portent of the equally good pitches above. Belay at a tree.

P5 5.7 150 ft:
From the P4 belay, move the belay across the ledge to the right about 50 feet, ending at the left-facing corner. A tree at the lip of the ledge provides a new anchor. Climb the slab above following the easiest moves on rock that yields easier climbing and better protection than it first appears (though pro is amply spaced at times).

As the climbing tapers, head up and right across a sloping ledge system (beware loose rock!) and belay at the base of a short left-facing corner system.

There is a dug-out placement in a low horizontal crack for a 0.75. The corner crack needs either a tipped out #3 or a #4; unfortunately, this is the only place a #4 is needed on the entire route.

P6 5.6 100ft:
Climb the short face immediately above the belay (no pro) to the ledge, then walk right across the ledge and step up to sink a bomber #2 camalot in a pod near a small grassy crack. Continue up the face aiming to finish just left of the apex of the pyramid above.

Belay at the final single-bolt belay anchor of the "Gray Slabs." This bolt is easily backed up by a medium nut or finger-sized cam.

P7 4th/low 5th 100ft:
Scramble up and right along the ridge to the summit of Mount Ogden.

Descend via the walk-off trail to the saddle to the south. Continue along the ridge line trail and skirt the Needles on the right/west side to the Middle Bowl saddle. Follow the obvious trail back to the gondola.

Location

Hike north past the "Gray Slabs" around the low-point of the east shoulder, and continue uphill passing "Wishful Thinking." Continue uphill around the right to the top of the scree/talus pile that marks the base of the route and the top of the Mount Ogden apron.

Protection

Single set to #3 or #4, doubles to 0.75. Bring plenty of small cams and 10 - 12 slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John approaching the P1 belay of "Full Battle Rattle."
[Hide Photo] John approaching the P1 belay of "Full Battle Rattle."
Approximate location of bolts and anchors with approximate line of ascent for P2 of Battle Rattle.
[Hide Photo] Approximate location of bolts and anchors with approximate line of ascent for P2 of Battle Rattle.
Peter Coe on P2 of Full Battle Rattle
[Hide Photo] Peter Coe on P2 of Full Battle Rattle
Derek starting up P2.
[Hide Photo] Derek starting up P2.
The first three pitches of "Full Battle Rattle."
[Hide Photo] The first three pitches of "Full Battle Rattle."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Neil Johnson
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] Bring at least a double rack of micro cams for pitch 2. The first part of the pitch protects adequately, but after the short crack system left of the belay, I encountered a healthy runout (~40'). I may have been off-route as described above, because my line landed me directly under the old pin under the roof. I found the traverse from this pin to the bushy ledge (~30') to lack any protection, but it was only around 5.6 terrain.

We bailed from the top of pitch 4 because pitch 2 used up much more time than anticipated. There is an excellent escape ledge to the South. Aug 29, 2016
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
  5.7 R
[Hide Comment] Battle Rattle feels like you're off route the whole time and has at least 3 sections in which terrain is easy, but protection is micro garbage and there is plenty of loose rock to keep your attention. Was real excited for P2, but found myself wondering who would take the time to place bolts that don't really link protectable features well. While its nice to get to the bolts on P2 after a 40' runnout on easy terrain it marks the start of a boatload of choss over lower angle terrain that won't be cleaning up any time soon thanks to the FA's decision not to place any fixed gear or choose an obvious natural feature for the line to follow. Maybe a 5.7-5.8 R testpiece if you want to challenge your mental game, but I think this route is destined for obscurity until someone takes the time and effort to establish a line that's worth your time. Jul 18, 2022
Thomas G.
SLC, UT
  5.7 X
[Hide Comment] Sorry guys. This route is not worth doing - 4 star location, absolute bomb of a line though. I was split between R and X, and honestly, for a 5.8 leader, this would be a fairly X rated route. Tons of loose rock (!!!!), lots of lichen, lots of rocks that are stuck together by moss. No clear line, shit gear, arbitrary bolts, and very contrived climbing.

At best the climbing is completely forgettable.

At worst the climbing is awful, shit, scary, unprotectable, easy, and loose. Jul 20, 2022