Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Castle Black

5.11-, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: FA by Kevin Piarulli, July 2016. Bolted by Jayson Nissen 2018
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Garden > Garden Cliffs

Description

Charge up the easy finger crack to the ledge and lay siege to the steep corner above. Cool stem moves on good rock lead to a powerful crux requiring a commiting reach. From there gallavant up the crack to a final mantle onto the ledge.

This section of the cliff seeps heavily and is the last area to dry in the summer. As of July 4 there was only one slimy hold but not really an issue. As with most routes here it's a good idea to bring a brush along, especially if you might be the first one up the route for the season.

Location

Left side of the cliff at the lowest point. Right facing corner in the black rock.

Protection

Bolts. Also goes on gear (PG13).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Castle black
[Hide Photo] Castle black
Crux photo as described. The reach is real. Get on this climb when it's dry y'all, It does not disappoint.
[Hide Photo] Crux photo as described. The reach is real. Get on this climb when it's dry y'all, It does not disappoint.
Castle Black
[Hide Photo] Castle Black

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I finally got this clean. On my first attempts, I lightly hit the ledge when I didn't make through the crux. So, I preplaced gear above the crux by getting to the anchors from Naschash. A single cam and double length sling worked pretty well. Now that I have the sequence dialed I am looking forward to working the Littlest Birds Project. Sep 19, 2018
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
 
[Hide Comment] After discussing with the FA. Bolts were added to this route. Hopefully, the convenience will allow for more traffic that will keep the route clean. The route is no longer R rated if you clip the bolts. Oct 4, 2018
Brandon Cortez
Salem, OR
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] This thing is sick!! The crux is a bit reachy, definitely would feel harder for someone with a shorter wingspan. Jump on it! Aug 27, 2021