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Castle Black

5.11- PG13, Trad, 50 ft,  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Kevin Piarulli
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Garden > Garden Cliffs

Description

Charge up the easy finger crack to the ledge and lay siege to the steep corner above. Cool stem moves on good rock lead to a powerful crux requiring a commiting reach. It is possible to tap the ledge falling from the crux, so place your gear well and have an attentive belay. From there gallavant up the crack to a final mantle onto the ledge.

This section of the cliff seeps heavily and is the last area to dry in the summer. As of July 4 there was only one slimy hold but not really an issue. As with most routes here it's a good idea to bring a brush along, especially if you might be the first one up the route for the season.

Location

Left side of the cliff at the lowest point. R facing corner in the impossibly black rock.

Protection

Cams to #2, a few extra finger size pieces. Rap rings at the anchor.

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Castle black
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Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I finally got this clean. On my first attempts, I lightly hit the ledge when I didn't make through the crux. So, I preplaced gear above the crux by getting to the anchors from Naschash. A single cam and double length sling worked pretty well. Now that I have the sequence dialed I am looking forward to working the Littlest Birds Project. Sep 19, 2018
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
 
[Hide Comment] After discussing with the FA. Bolts were added to this route. Hopefully, the convenience will allow for more traffic that will keep the route clean. The route is no longer R rated if you clip the bolts. Oct 4, 2018