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Castle Black
5.11-,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 12
votes
FA: FA by Kevin Piarulli, July 2016. Bolted by Jayson Nissen 2018
Oregon
> Willamette Valley
> Garden
> Garden Cliffs
Description
Charge up the easy finger crack to the ledge and lay siege to the steep corner above. Cool stem moves on good rock lead to a powerful crux requiring a commiting reach. From there gallavant up the crack to a final mantle onto the ledge.
This section of the cliff seeps heavily and is the last area to dry in the summer. As of July 4 there was only one slimy hold but not really an issue. As with most routes here it's a good idea to bring a brush along, especially if you might be the first one up the route for the season.
Location
Left side of the cliff at the lowest point. Right facing corner in the black rock.
Protection
Bolts. Also goes on gear (PG13).
[Hide Photo] Castle black
[Hide Photo] Crux photo as described. The reach is real. Get on this climb when it's dry y'all, It does not disappoint.
Monterey, CA
Monterey, CA
Salem, OR