Type: Trad, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 270 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nelissa Milfeld on Jul 4, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start up a short and stout finger crack and encounter a crux near the end of the crack. Clip a piton, place a piece or two, and head up on steeper terrain to the bolt. Place another piece and go up and left to the anchor above the lip. This is the best route at the crag and is not to be missed.

Location

This is on Tiger Wall. Locate the obvious shallow right-leaning finger crack.

Protection

Doubles .3 to .75 with one #1 or #2 (all in camalot sizes). There is a pin and a bolt after the finger crack. There is a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11d
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11d
Very fun route that has a variety of movement going from hands to fingers to off-fingers, liebacking, to steep technical face climbing, stemming, and surmounting an overhang at the top. To TR you will want to set up a short rap to get to the 2 bolt anchor (w/ chains and courtesy biners). Take a few cams in the orange to black Metolius (0.5 - 0.75 BD) range for the rappel anchor. The crux of the crack feels stout for the grade. Jul 17, 2018
kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
Painful but beautiful finger locks and generally crap feet make the first part of this route memorable. My advice is to have a tea party at the ledge after the crack where the fixed piton is to prepare yourself for the rest of the climb. It looks from that piton like there's another ledge at the next bolt, but there isn't. Aug 27, 2018