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Routes in Chimney Mountain

East Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
South Face T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Southwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Tad Welch and company
Page Views: 88 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jul 3, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb to the old piton 20 feet up, move right for gear and holds. Continue up, zig zagging a path of least resistance (and best gear) until you reach the ledge below the 40 foot tower. Climb the tower, following a line that includes two oddly placed (are both necessary?) pitons midway up.

The are no anchors, so you must build a gear anchor for the belay and it would be easiest to downclimb the tower (5.1). We did manage to wrap the rope around the top most horn/highest point of rock, then move an end far left to reduce the drag enough to pull the rope after rappelling.

Location

Just before reaching the summit and tower area, on the right you will see a trail that leads down to a camping area (can access the "True Summit" cliffs via the left path off this camp area). Continuing on the main trail, on the left is a trail that leads sharply down to the base of the cliff below the summit area. Look for a piton just above a small quartz patch about 20 feet up and about 10 feet left of the large chimney that splits the right side of the cliff.

Protection

Trad, a few pitons.

The first piton is manky. The next piece is a move away.

Photos

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