PRINT: Rock Climb Communion, Northwest Region

Communion

5.9+ PG13, Sport, 420 ft (127 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 2 from 6 votes
FA: Ken Miller and Jeremy Nelson
Montana > Northwest Region > Testament Slabs

Description

Pitch 1 (12 bolts) 5.7

Face climb in-cuts in rock past 7 bolts to a good ledge, continue moving up crux 5.7 face through bolt line or variations to an amazing arrowhead shaped overhang with good holds, then continue up easier ground over bulge to a 3 bolt belay anchor with chains. 100ft.

Pitch 2 (15 bolts) 5.8

Move left 15 ft. of belay ledge to a 2 bolt belay. Start here and follow face up past grooves, watch for section of loose rock about 50-60 ft. up, climb through to better rock and moves to loose rock ledge and a 3 bolt belay anchor with chains and rap station. 115ft.

Pitch 3 (14 bolts) 5.10a

Climb left up delicate face moves then move right past thin bulge crux, move gently past wedged rectangular block and up over an exciting roof to gain ledge system with tree. 3 bolt belay and chain anchors. 100ft.

Pitch 4 (13 bolts) 5.9

Tread lightly, straight up face through 3 mini-bulges to a 2 bolt chain anchor/ 1 bolt on top of cliff. 115ft.

Gear and Rappel:

15-Quick draws & shoulder runners! Need 1-70M rope or 2-60M ropes (rappel route!)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Communion 5.10a 4-pitch
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Amen 5.10b 1-pitch

Communion 5.10a 4-pitch Amen 5.10b 1-pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Steele

5.9 PG13

Really neat to get four pitches of sport in NW Montana; so much so that we made the drive from Kalispell to check it out. Kudos to the developers for finding this area, and doing the work to bolt it out. Points also for excellent directions--only thing I'd add is that it's further than a 1/4th mile up the canyon.

First two pitches felt 5.7-5.8, with the upper two solidly 5.9. A single 70m is fine for the raps, but anything less will short you on two of them.

Pg13 or R depending on your tolerance for VCR to toaster sized loose rocks--feels very alpine. We chucked a bunch off, but expect to have to pick your way carefully on lead. You're insane if you don't bring a helmet. If the rock quality were better, this would be three stars easily.

Many people would consider this overbolted. Rock quality made for a few funky bolt placements (solid bolts, but in strange places relative to the rope line), so bring a few extra draws or alpine draws or simply skip them to keep the rope running well. Aug 24, 2016

Ken Miller

5.10a

This comment was left by J.Mills. Something went wrong with MP, and moved his comment to the route description.

A cool climb in a cool valley. Lots and lots of bolts. A bit chossy, don't wander off the scrub line, wear your damn helmet, do NOT bring your dog!

Pitch 1, 5.7: Lots of bolts to a good ledge.

Pitch 2, 5.8: Pretty chossy, tread lightly to a decent belay.

Pitch 3, 5.10a: Best pitch of the climb, less chossy to a good ledge.

Pitch 4, 5.9+: Not super chossy to a hanging belay at the lip of the wall or belay off a tree above the wall.

Anything less than a 70m rope will leave you short rapping pitches two and four.

Thanks to the total badasses who put the amazing effort into bolting this thing!

The more it's climbed, the cleaner it’ll get! May 2, 2022