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Routes in Buuveit Camp Area

(Very) easy street T,TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Rope Dick T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Service Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Matt Liston May 7, 2015
Page Views: 55 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nat D on Jul 3, 2016
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Description

This route follows a hand sized crack system up to a large ledge, then up a narrow chimney to the next ledge where an anchor can be built. There is likely 1-2 more pitches above this route that can be done as a trad lead, but were not completed at the time of the first ascent.

Best way to get to the route is to navigate to the GPS coordinates below and look for the obvious crack system. I will upload pictures when I can, but I'm on a 6 month trip and my photo library is back at home.

The first 40-50 feet is quite easy, low 5th class, with ample opportunity to place pro in the crack system. Just below the first ledge is the crux, which requires some careful balancing and smearing to perform the top-out move, and it not well protected. Once on the ledge, take the chimney to the climbers left for another 10-15 feet to the top of the first pitch.

Location

UTM 48T 684949.52 m E 5305743.68 m N

Protection

Double rack of Camalot or equivalent sizes .5-4. Might be able to get away with singles for the climb, but you will need the doubles for the anchor at the top, or else you will have to take a long-ish walkdown to the left off the top of pitch one.

Photos

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