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Lock n' Load

5.10b, Sport, 365 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Brenden Sullivan, Oren Cowlishaw, Tanner Hall, Alisha Lynn
Utah > Maple Canyon > Middle Fork > Armory, The

Description

The main description for The Armory on Mountain Project does not do this cliff justice at all. In the guidebook, Darren and Christian write, "the rock on this wall is as good as it gets for Maple". The first 200' of the the wall is a beautiful, silvery, unbroken single plane of rock. All routes offer a variety of climbing; from slightly low-angle slab, to dead-vertical edging, to pockets of courtesy steep sections. Facing due west, there is morning shade until around 1-2PM and sun until last light which, depending on current temps, makes for all season climbing. The Armory contains the longest multi-pitch climbs in Maple Canyon, the original routes here are classic, and its definitely worth checking out for a full day of fun climbing.

This route took an entire week in the making, seven drill bits, over fifty bolts, twelve batteries, five long approaches, some blood, some sweat, and perhaps a few tears. But thanks to a couple friends who stuck around for the first ascent, we had some help hauling some of the gear in and out. No joke, "The hardest place to bolt in Utah is Maple Canyon." - Jeff Baldwin. Some of these quartzite cobbles are so hard that an entire battery and/or drill bit could be wasted on a single hole! The crux is short but the climb it self is just as classic as the neighboring routes. Although the rock here is generally sound, this route is quite new so expect some loose rock, wear a helmet, and enjoy one of the tallest or possibly the tallest route in Maple Canyon.

Pitch One: 5.7 - Avoid belaying directly in the chimney. Climb the prow that starts vertical but eventually mellows out onto "dinosaur egg" cobbles. 7 bolts, 85'

Pitch Two: 5.10b - Crux of the route is just off the belay pulling the lip of a small roof which leads to a "bulletproof" feel good slab ending at a chock-stone belay stance at the top of the chimney. 13 bolts, 100'

Pitch Three: 5.8 - Belay from the chock-stone or utilize the bomber first bolt equipped with a link to get your party onto the big ledge. As for the pitch, climb the headwall up and left passing by a huge cobble, a few nice pockets, and a "Honeybucket" jug. 6 bolts, 60'

Pitch Four: 5.9 - This pitch was bolted on lead during the first ascent. Again, climb leftward passing over several large cobbles, and keep left, then up and romp over a few ledges to the main summit. 9 bolts, 95'

Pitch Five: 5.0 - For a true summit, clip two bolts for the "photo-opp" and lower back down. Follower can clean, thread the quick-link, and lower off or simply use caution and climb back down. 2 bolts, 25'

Decent: Make four rappels back down the route with a 60m rope. Final rappel station is independent from the route - to the right, back in the chimney. Rapping Slamfire is NOT recomended. Rappelling back down SLAMFIRE would create TREMENDOUS ROPE DRAG and the rope would be virtually IMPOSSIBLE to pull free.

Location

This route starts 30' left of "Dryfire" on the left side of a deep chimney.

Gear

Take 15 quick-draws, definitely include a few runners or alpine-draws, and a 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Adding Alisha's exclusive courtesy bolt. The leaf blower does wonders for route cleaning.
[Hide Photo] Adding Alisha's exclusive courtesy bolt. The leaf blower does wonders for route cleaning.
Lock n' Load
[Hide Photo] Lock n' Load
Cowlishaw drilling the final rap staion.
[Hide Photo] Cowlishaw drilling the final rap staion.
This cobble drained an entire battery with a 36v Bosch... Believe it or not, Maple is comprised of some of the hardest rock on Earth.
[Hide Photo] This cobble drained an entire battery with a 36v Bosch... Believe it or not, Maple is comprised of some of the hardest rock on Earth.
Top of pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch 2.
Oren pounding one in on pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Oren pounding one in on pitch 3.
Tanner and Alisha following on the FA
[Hide Photo] Tanner and Alisha following on the FA