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Jaws

WI4-5, Trad, Ice, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jamie Cunningham (1982, see comment) FFA? Don Mello & Ed Palen Jan 1996
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > Cascade Pass

Description

Grade, of course, "depends on conditions !" When I did it we climbed a bit more to the right than is shown in the guidebook, maybe just left of where Killer Whale goes over the "overlap / overhang". Yet even then the top had not connected with the bottom flow so there was some "free space" to muscle over.

P1 - Climb up and into the "mouth" of the Jaws and then over. I'd say 4- to 5+ depending on amount of ice.

Rap of tree(s) with 2 ropes.

Location

see photo

Protection

usual stuff, plus we used a Lost Arrow piton to protect the leader on the overlap.

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Jaws Area
[Hide Photo] Jaws Area

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[Hide Comment] I believe I did the actual known first ascent of Jaws in Febuary 1982 with Ken Reville belaying. Ken did not follow the pitch as he came down with the flu as I climbed!
The ice fang never touched down to the base of the climb that year, so I aid climbed out the roof at A3. Dec 11, 2017