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Routes in Penstemon Dome

Captain America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Zukes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rachel's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope-A-Dope S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Song of the Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Hoe-down T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 340 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Gonzales, Bill Segal, Steve Kohut, Jeff Thomas, 7/07.
Page Views: 237 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steve Blevins on Jun 30, 2016
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Location

This route is on the climber's far left side of the dome. L to R, it appears as the first sporting quality route, both from a distance and upclose.

Description

This is a nicely done route of 2 pitches, with bolted belays. Most of the climbing is 5.7ish

P1: there are 2 closely spaced bolts for the crux, barely off the deck. Follow bolts to bolted belays, supplemental pro available. 7b's, 160', 5.9. The crux does have a 5.10- minus feel to it, but is only 1or 2 moves well protected, straightforward.

P2: 7b's, the last one easy to miss on easy terrain. No gear opportunities. Jog left after the 3rd bolt. Don't head for the obvious belay on the right, half way up. 170-180', 5,8 at most.

Easy and beautiful walk off up and then off to climber's left. You can stay along the dome margin after descending the slabs and end up at your packs without getting cliffed out.

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The 5.9/.10a crux of the route described here and in the guidebook seemed much easier than other sections of the climb -- it's low-angled and relatively featured, 5.7 at most.

On the other hand, the moves to the last bolt on p1 and the left-trending section after the 3rd bolt on p2 felt closer to the 5.9/10a grade of the climb. The rock there is far steeper and blanker, and the climbing insecure with some space between bolts.

Overall, a great climb -- great, somewhat technical slab with just enough features to offer a sense of security after the blankest sections. The anchor at the top of p1 is hard to spot until you're pretty much on top of it, but it's there! Spent a while trying to find the bolts, which are pretty well-hidden against the rock. One gear placement between bolts 2 and 3 of p1. We had a 70m rope and it took us 3 raps to get down... make sure your rope ends are tied because it's more than 35m from the p1 anchors to the base. Had to downclimb from left of the start. Sep 24, 2017