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Sven Glückspilz S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hanspeter Sterchi, André Gigon 1985
Page Views: 202 total, 11/month
Shared By: JJ Furman on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Dan Flynn

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5 pitches of slab and face climbing on grippy gneiss. Belay stations were comfortable enough for 4 people (though belay #4 was tight). Pitches vary from 35-45 meters. The crux is at the beginning of pitch 3. Pitch 5 is steep but feature rich, short, and fairly easy. (rated 4c/5.6, but seemed easier)

Rap off (2x 50m or 2x 60m)

There are 2 dozen sister climbs on this same cliff. For more information I highly recommend the Filidor Plaisir Ost climbing guidebook.


Park at the hairpin lot 1 km uproad from Alpin Center Sustenpass. Walk 20 minutes due north on a trail to the base.

Parking lot GPS location = 46.73287 N, 8.41328 E


12 Quickdraws, your favorite anchor material.

Rap rings at every belay station.