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Routes in Kachina Woman

Frito Bandito T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incognito Bandito T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tim & Larry Coats
Page Views: 618 total, 35/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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The original route on Kachina Woman ascends the obvious corner system on the northeast aspect. This is the easiest way to the top of this formation.

First-time climbers may notice two options for the start, which are listed below.
Left-hand start: Start by walking over to and then surmounting the semi-detached block on the east side of the spire. Clip a fixed piton before traversing right to the base of the corner. About 5.7.
Right-hand start: Boulder up out of the main cave and bust a few dicey slab moves (with groundfall potential) until reaching a single bolt. Traverse left to the base of the corner. Something like 5.9+ R.

The crux comprises the short sequence of moves in the corner. Lots of features here, and lots of pro. Everybody I know disagrees with the 5.10- rating assigned in the Bloom guidebook. Above the crux, continue up the chunky offwidth to a platform below the summit block and climb the obvious wavy crack to the top.

Rappel the north side of the spire with one 60m rope.


Marked on google maps as Boynton Canyon Vortex, the area immediately surrounding Kachina Woman is a popular day-hiking destination. Park at Boynton Canyon trailhead and follow the main trail for 5 minutes until the Vista Trail turnoff on the right-hand side. This well-worn path cuts east, keeping below the spire on the south side, before switchbacking a short distance to the south saddle. Contour around the west side of the spire to access the north saddle, where Original Bandito begins. Total: 15-20 minutes


Single rack to 3"
optional 4" piece
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
5.9 PG13
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
5.9 PG13
Agreed... Thought the route was easier than the rating--surprising for an old route. Would also call it 5.9. Would give it 2 stars and Frito 3. Sep 20, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
FA: Coats Brothers 1980's. Originally rated 5.10- but maybe they went out around to the north more for harder exit? Who knows... obvious exit is easy off ledge.

Could be cool to get Bandito Spire into its own area within Boyton Area so that we can add the Frito Bandito Route to the feature as well...?? Jul 7, 2016