[Hide Comment] Really fun alternate start to outer space. Sequence through the roof is a little more tricky to sort out for those of us with a short wingspan, but it's all still there.

I led the first pitch of remorse and took the layback flake up into the corner a ways where I could see great gear. Doing this to a semi hanging belay sucks. When you pass the bush on the remorse start keep looking up and right for a bolted belay (true RPM belay). This will let parties going through remorse come through right behind your second with no shenanigans. Sep 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] I do not recommend the hanging belay, there is a perfect belay spot right at the end of P1(5.6) of remorse. or go to the bolt anchor on a large ledge which is about 15 feet right of the crack system and up a right leaning ramp from the P1 remorse belay station. Apr 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] Really memorable climbing on the second pitch, fun jamming and stemming. The roof is really nice as well, memorable movement on knobs, locks and underclings. Adds some more character to outer space, which is already a good route. I would say as far as climbing the most direct line up this part of the face, RPM to Outer Space is the way to go!

My partner belayed at the start of the jam flakes after not being so psyched to traverse around a large detached boulder to get to the bolts. Looks like you could avoid touching it, but is definitely something to consider when picking a belay spot. With a 60m I was just able to hit the anchor spot at two tree ledge and clove hitch in from that belay. I think if you belayed at the bolts you may come up short with a 60m. May 27, 2021

[Hide Comment] Fixed cam is still behind the flake at start of RPM P2 corner, but I didn't feel compelled to use that feature. Didn't see any wasps around that area. From the ground, our "P1" was up the remorse ramp, then up a reachy move and some hand jams of the RPM corner before traversing to the 2-bolt anchor on a ledge over to the right. Lots of drag on this pitch, even with heavy extending (including 2x doubles), wish I'd had a DMM revolver especially for that last piece before traversing to the anchor. I didn't find the detached flake/boulder on the traverse to be loose or sketchy, but I didn't yard on it too hard. I put a small cam (~BD 0.3 I think) in the middle of the traverse to keep the rope up away from this block while belaying the 2nd, not because it was loose but to minimize rope rubbing.

P2 going straight up over the roof is super rad and airy, some very interesting beta options! Some decent micro nut and other gear options on the face climbing part, keep your eyes open. Last few moves in the corner to top out the "pedestal" had some options that all were a bit spicy! Don't forget to clip the bolt above the pedestal to redirect the rope when belaying the 2nd (and use a revolver here like Nick Drake said, if you have one).

Whatever gear you bring for Outer Space is fine for this. I think we used 3x each BD #1-2 on RPM P2, ironically since we brought them for Outer Space but I only placed 2 each on the long splitter OS P5 (although that was pretty airy spacing). Sep 21, 2021

[Hide Comment] For those curious about the first pitch here is some firsthand info.

The climbing is good, but the lead felt like heady 5.10 friction. Around the second bolt the clean rock continues up a thin dike with no pro above, but easier and better protected climbing goes an unintuitive right into decent holds between lichen and moss (I suspect drilling the bolt was better at the stance left, which is a good calf shake regardless). The climbing above is relatively easy, but still route finding intensive. You will want at least a single rack despite the two bolts. There’s a piece of pro before the bolts and some after, but all are pretty spaced.

Overall, an engaging pitch more consistent with the next and the rest of Outer Space, but a fall at certain points could be ugly. Jun 15, 2022

[Hide Comment] the bolts are kinda sketch Jun 7, 2023

[Hide Comment] Did the P1 Remorse into P2 RPM and thought it was a really great combo, the slab start didn't look appetizing hence going up P1 of remorse.

We were not sure if we were going to do the 10b pitch so we didn't initially setup the belay at the bolted anchor that is about 15ft right of the right facing corner crack system. So we did a small mini-pitch up to the bolted anchor and then went on from there. I think with a 70m we could have made it from top of P1 of remorse to top of P2 of RPM but not positive.

The crux protects super well, you can get a piece in before, under the roof and then (reach dependent), reach over and place a piece for the crux move. It is not sustained but very enjoyable and airy!

With the bolted anchor at the bottom of P1 and the bolted anchor at the top of p2(just below the ledge where you continue up for Outer Space P3) you could climb and rappel just these two pitches if you bring two ropes. Aug 20, 2025

[Hide Comment] I feel the Remorse -> RPM -> Outer Space variation is probably the funnest and most streamlined way to add a high quality pitch to OS if you have a slightly bigger appetite, but a quick clarification; the above description says that P1 Remorse goes at 5.0 (and even suggests to scramble it), but if you climb it all the way to the fixed anchor to belay the RPM roof, the last 15 feet are kinda' akward and dirty 5.6. Don't accidentally sandbag yourself before the fun starts! If you are climbing up the path of least resistance from the base, you will eventually arrive at a small dirt ledge where going left and going right look equally as plausible. This is the end of the 5.0 and you can place a #3 at your feet. Going left can either take you hard left to stay on Remorse, or up and left goes past the stuck neutrino to the RPM roof / corner, going up and right takes you to a fixed anchor which can also be used to belay the RPM roof / corner. May 4, 2026

[Hide Comment] Pitch 2 of RPM is amazing. That said the approach via Remorse is throw-away climbing and the belay situation is inopportune. The bolted anchor is hard to find and off route in a weird location and there's no ideal location for a gear anchor at a decent stance in line with the route. If someone wanted to "move" that bolted station down and left 30'-40' and either clean-up and retro P1 of RPM or develop a different face pitch on the expanse of rock to climbers right of RPM you would unlock absolutely classic climbing from base to summit. Just a thought. Jun 10, 2026

[Hide Comment] @Darin that is fake news. About 15 feet below the anchor there is a dirt ledge big enough for two people where you can place a #3 and belay. This is technically the end of P1 remorse. From this belay some people take off left (the path that leads to John’s ever lost neutrino) or right to a dirty mantle past the fixed anchor, both take you to the start of the good corner.

I would consider this a moderate if not easy alpine problem to solve and representative of the area. Jul 16, 2026