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Routes in Luwazi Rock

Facebook S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lichen It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Matoke Fingers V5 6C
Saikoh (aka Fun) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Haul V0 4
Termite Be Your Last Breath V7 7A+
Termite Be Your Last Step V5 6C
Top Ropes S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Voyage Voyage V7-8 7B
Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: PROJECT
Page Views: 91 total, 5/month
Shared By: Elie Bou-Gharios on Jun 26, 2016
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Description

This is the harder, sit start variation of the V5 Termite Be Your Last Step. This climb is a project and has yet to be sent.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo below.

Start sitting on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand three-finger sloper, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is a big, right hand throw to a small crimp (Crux move). Then left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo.
Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

Location

Far left side of Termite Boulder, all side pulls to the right of the holds are not in, very easy descent on the other side of the boulder.
Look for the huge termite mound on the left as soon as you hit blank rock walking up from the road.

Protection

Flat landing, rock just below, pads definitely required

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