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Routes in Karaweik Wall

Brexit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colombière S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Die Kleine Hexe (The Little Witch) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Leather S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
FMA (First Male Ascent) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Ridge Recollection S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monet's Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Royal-D S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensei S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
View, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 45 ft
FA: Andrew Riley (Bolted by Andrew and Katie)
Page Views: 77 total · 3/month
Shared By: Andrew Riley on Jun 26, 2016
Admins: Andrew Riley

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Access Issue: Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks Details

Description

Starts with the same start and first two bolts of 'Golden Ridge Recollection', before turning right and climbing up the right face of the dihedral using face holds and the arete. Like 'Golden Ridge' the starting boulder problem is height dependent, and is also the crux. If you are short, the boulder problem at the base is probably 5.10d/5.11a. (6b+/6c) If you are tall and can reach the upper holds, or if you can jump to the jug, the route is about 5.10a (6a). If you just want to climb a 6a, you can step up on the tree next to the route to skip the bottom boulder. After the bottom boulder, climb a slab, pull through a bulge, and cruise up the amazing exposed face and arete on perfect jugs.

Location

Shares the start and first couple of bolts with 'Golden Ridge Recollection' and 'Monet's Rising Sun.' The start is in front of a small cave overhang towards the middle of Karaweik Wall. The Route is number 10 on the Karaweik Wall Right topo photo. After you clip the first three bolts head right onto the dihedral wall and arete.

Protection

6 bolts and 2 rings anchors. Stainless steel wave glue-in bolts installed 06/25/16. Stick clip the first bolt or step up on the tree to clip it.

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