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Siren
5.12b,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 9
votes
FA: Equipped- Terry Twomey FA- Taylor Spiegelberg 9/23/18
Wyoming
> Eastern Big Horns
> Piney Creek Canyon
> Shipyard
> 3. Mytho Wall
Description
Siren climbs a high-quality red streak of dolomite just left of the two blue streaks. This pitch is rather short, but features super fun, gymnastic movement off of beautifully sculpted holds. Expect a thin low crux, and a dynamic crux a little higher. It seems this line has been overlooked due to its proximity to the blue streaks, but the quality of movement is just as good!
This beautiful climb was another route developed by the late Terry Twomey. He had an eye for great lines, and it really shows in this route. Terry left some bolts heading up to the rim above the Siren anchors. As of recently, these don't go anywhere, but could be developed into a cherry mega pitch similar to Leviathan.
Protection
Bolts to Chains
[Hide Photo] Siren climbs the red streak left of the blue waterstreak
Tucson, AZ
One note, an added lower bolt (before the current high first bolt) would likely prevent the climber from getting flossed during a fall at the lower crux. Jun 27, 2022