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Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, June 2016
Page Views: 114 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jun 26, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Pi takes the nice looking moderate face right of Lack of Principle, followed by one of the most unusual 5.7 pitches in the area. From the walk-out ledge, follow a line with three bolts (gear between) to a large ledge and belay by tying off a huge boulder. (About 15 feet left on the ledge is the two-bolt belay (Metolius rap anchors) for Zach's and Doubling, but your second will appreciate it if you belay from the boulder.) Pitch 2 avoids the gigantic cammed block above the boulder by stepping right, clipping a hidden bolt, then working up a left-leaning ramp to another bolt over a bulge and heading almost straight-up to the anchors. Just left of the second bolt, there is a large cammed flake; it wouldn't budge with a pry bar, but be circumspect. Bolts added after the FA to make it more suitable and fun for beginning trad leaders.

Location

About 30 feet right of Lack of Principle is an obvious walk-out ledge with a belay bolt. The route lies above. Rap from chains or continue up the ridge (3rd or 4th class) as far as you’d like (this is the upper part of Straddle the Pony, above its crux section).

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams from micro to 2 ½".

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