Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, June 2016
Page Views: 247 total · 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jun 26, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pi takes the nice looking moderate face right of Lack of Principle, followed by one of the most unusual 5.7 pitches in the area. From the walk-out ledge, follow a line with three bolts (gear between) to a large ledge and belay by tying off a huge boulder. (About 15 feet left on the ledge is the two-bolt belay (Metolius rap anchors) for Zach's and Doubling, but your second will appreciate it if you belay from the boulder.) Pitch 2 avoids the gigantic cammed block above the boulder by stepping right, clipping a hidden bolt, then working up a left-leaning ramp to another bolt over a bulge and heading almost straight-up to the anchors. On the second pitch, just left of the second bolt, there is a large cammed flake; it wouldn't budge with a pry bar, but be circumspect using it. Bolts added after the FA to make it more suitable and fun for beginning trad leaders.

Location

About 30 feet right of Lack of Principle is an obvious walk-out ledge with a belay bolt. The route lies above. Rap from chains or continue up the ridge (3rd or 4th class) as far as you’d like (this is the upper part of Straddle the Pony, above its crux section).

Protection

Single set of nuts and cams from micro to 2 ½".

Photos

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