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Prancer

5.8, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 12 votes
FA: Mike Carrington
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Unicorn Valley
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Description

Climb the slab on nice edges to a ledge. Undercling to get feet for the last short, balancy slab. You can clip the last bolt of Unicorns Fart Rainbows or run it out to the anchors. This shares anchors with Unicorns Fart Rainbows, 6 bolts.

Location

This is the second bolted climb to the right.

Protection

Draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Emma about to rap. The left rope is clipped to the bolts.
[Hide Photo] Emma about to rap. The left rope is clipped to the bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Fiona Andrews
Denver
5.9
[Hide Comment] This is the middle of 3 very close lines, so a step left or right and you're on a neighboring route. The crux comes at the "underclinging" move. Maybe I'm just too tall to use it like you did, Mike, but keeping the bolts pretty much in front of me, I ended up with a nub for my left hand, a 2 finger crimp for my right, and not great feet. The next move isn't a whole lot easier. Considerably more difficult than the climb to the left. I'd say it felt every bit a 5.9. It also now has its own anchor. Aug 20, 2019