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Routes in The Split Boulder

Anorexorcist V7 7A+
Bones to Bits V2-3 5+
Bulemia V5 6C
Confident Man V11 8A
Flakes of Life V1-2 5
Halcyon V11 8A
Heart of Darkness V12 8A+
Jaded V1 5
Morgue, The V3 6A
My Little Pony V9-10 7C+
Outback V2-3 5+
Rio's Problem V7+ 7A+
Stegasaurus V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 380 total, 22/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Jun 25, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a broken traverse on chossy rock! The start holds are gone, as is one of the key holds. Currently it is back to project status.

Location

On the Split Boulder to the immediate right of Bones to Bits.

Protection

A few pads. Maybe a spotter if you continue up the crack.

Photos

- No Photos -
I saw chalk on that unnamed v10 today, went and checked it out... Looks rad! Aug 12, 2016
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
Sorry guys, there wasn't much right about this description so I tweaked it. It has been climbed many times since the FA, however it is mostly broken and unclimbed in a number of years. When compared to the other lines on the boulder it's not even worth it. The start holds that were shared with Coin Toss are gone and I ripped a key hold off a few years ago. It does not climb up the face - it was a rightward traverse to the arete next to Stegasaurus and then around the arete into the corner/crack to the top with the actual topout being optional. Jul 1, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Flakes of Life is a traverse that starts as for Rio's Problem traverses right into a giant flake. It kinda traverses over the river. The dirty crack I'm talking goes right above stegasaurus. Cool to know that Heart Of Darkness actually goes right up the huge face, that's actually sick! I thought it went into the disgusting and terrifying crack above Stegasaurus. I was looking at the holds for Coin Toss and they look like they've reached a relatively solid state. Jun 28, 2016
Jake-

I believe that you are right about Coin Toss but not HOD. I'm fairly confident that the dirty crack you mentioned is a sketchy v4 called "Flakes of Life", and that Coin Toss does traverse into Bones to Bits, but that Heart of Darkness goes straight up the face. I don't know anything about Los Amigos or that unarmed v10. I have heard locals call Coin Toss a pile of choss, earning the name "Choss Toss". Heart of Darkness deserves more attempts from those with that kind of skill, though. Coin Toss not so much. Jun 28, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
I believe this climb starts just to the right of Bones To Bits, then it traverses low to the right and finishes up the dirty crack above Stegasaurus, and Coin Toss (V9/10) is the same traverse but in the opposite direction (start by the crack above Stegasaurus, traverse left into Bones To Bits). I could be wrong though. If someone could shed some more light on these two climbs that would be awesome!

Either way, apparently a crux/needed hold has broken on Heart Of Darkness and the sit start also broke. It could possibly still go (probably be harder now, unless better beta was found) but I've heard it's not nearly as good as Confident Man or Halcyon. Coin Toss still goes at V9 but the sit/extension for it is also broken. Hopefully some inspired person could resend this line!

If someone is looking for another good challenge on this boulder, they should check out Three Amigos. I'm not completely sure where it starts, but it starts somewhere between Confident Man and Halcyon, and climbs some small holds up into the last couple moves of Halcyon. There's also an unnamed V10 that climbs the cool swooping prow to the left of Rio's Problem, it starts on the undercling. Jun 25, 2016