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Routes in Right End

Buffalo Bob T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Festus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach For The Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ed Palen & "Buffalo Bob" Starinsky
Page Views: 105 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 23, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Ed Palen pointed me to this climb in 2002 with the promise of the glory of the 2nd ascent. He'd been climbing a lot that year, and really was climbing well.

He said, in all honesty " 5.7 maybe 5.7+ "

START- Look for a spike of rock 15-20 ft right of the "laser cut" layback corner of "Buffalo Bob".

P1 - Climb up past a piton gaining the thin crack above. Climb this (remember, your Beta said "5.7" ! Ha!) headed up into a corner with a ceiling. Below the corner/ceiling step left. (Ed forgot to mention this little fact, I tried the ceiling for a while, see Variation).
Join "Reach for the Sky" to its fixed anchor.

Adirondack Rock lists a variation: Climb through the ceiling via the left crack, 5.10d


There are quite a few fixed pitons, both Ed's and mine, but small wire nuts can augment. You want at least 2 longer slings, one for the bottom and one for the move left.


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