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Chalk-Up Matilda

5.8, Trad, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Ed Palen & Paul Brown Nov 1994
New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Avalanche Mountain

Description

For my money..pretty close to a 4-star route.

Climb up the left side of the corner (photos) then step out left and up the beautiful crack. (photos)
Rap with 2 ropes from the fixed anchor on the cedar tree.

Photos of an ascent in Sept 2005

HISTORY- Sheila and I were in with Ed Palen in the early fall of 1994 (or was it '93 ?). Ed was cleaning the big inside corner that would become P1 of "3D". Sheila and I climbed up the big, vegetated corner/chimney system (about 5.5 ?) to the right of what would become "Chalk-Up". The beautiful crack of "Chalk-Up" beckoned, BUT the top of the crack, where it opened to become sort of a "V" was just packed and packed with dead, rotting leaves. [photo 8] I could just see successfully getting up the crack and then "buying the farm" on slippery leaves, or the mud beneath.
Ed cleaned the route and snagged the FA.

Location

As the hiking trail from ADK lodge/Marcy Dam drops down to the lake, look for a climber's path up to the right. [NOTE: See comment 6/2/2020....it seems the climber's path may be a bit obscure these days. ]
The climb starts in, and is just left of the big, ugly corner/chimney (FA R Hall & S Matz 1993 or 94, somehow I don't think anyone wants to repeat the ugly corner/chimney!)

Protection

Std rack - medium cams and finger-sized nuts work well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

photo 5 - on crux, Chalk-Up Matilda, Avalanche Pass / Avalanche Mtn
[Hide Photo] photo 5 - on crux, Chalk-Up Matilda, Avalanche Pass / Avalanche Mtn
Photo 8 - In 1994 the "V" was just packed with leaves. (This photo taken Sept 2005)
[Hide Photo] Photo 8 - In 1994 the "V" was just packed with leaves. (This photo taken Sept 2005)
Photo 7 - S Matz follows - near / at crux
[Hide Photo] Photo 7 - S Matz follows - near / at crux
Photo 6 nearing the top
[Hide Photo] Photo 6 nearing the top
photo 4 - the ledge below the crack
[Hide Photo] photo 4 - the ledge below the crack
Photo 3 -
[Hide Photo] Photo 3 -
Photo 2  M.M. on Chalk-Up
[Hide Photo] Photo 2 M.M. on Chalk-Up
Photo 1  Mark M. starting Chalk-Up Matilda
[Hide Photo] Photo 1 Mark M. starting Chalk-Up Matilda

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Fletcher Codd
Plattsburgh
 
[Hide Comment] The top of the ramp has a bit of choss, pulled off a small flake and punched myself in the face. The finger crack is awesome though. Definitely worth doing if you're ticking climbs at and around the Fin. Oct 17, 2019
Jack Gumina
Rochester, NY
 
[Hide Comment] I did this route a few weeks ago and wanted to add a bit of beta on finding it. I couldn't for the life of me find the climbers path so I just bushwhacked to the cliff edge. The climb is at the top of a decent sized hill and is even with where the trail hits the lake. At ground, the cedar tree anchor is clearly visible and there are amazing views of the lake and of Colden. I didn't take an exact GPS location from the base, but I got this point off my Gaia track and am confident that it is close. 44.13577, -73.96501

P.s I brought 10 draws and wished I had 12. There are a few full-on moves and I found the route to be a bit heady. Jun 3, 2020