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Chalk-Up Matilda
5.8,
Trad, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Ed Palen & Paul Brown Nov 1994
New York
> Adirondacks
> E: High Peaks R…
> Avalanche Mountain
Description
For my money..pretty close to a 4-star route.
Climb up the left side of the corner (photos) then step out left and up the beautiful crack. (photos)
Rap with 2 ropes from the fixed anchor on the cedar tree.
Photos of an ascent in Sept 2005
HISTORY- Sheila and I were in with Ed Palen in the early fall of 1994 (or was it '93 ?). Ed was cleaning the big inside corner that would become P1 of "3D". Sheila and I climbed up the big, vegetated corner/chimney system (about 5.5 ?) to the right of what would become "Chalk-Up". The beautiful crack of "Chalk-Up" beckoned, BUT the top of the crack, where it opened to become sort of a "V" was just packed and packed with dead, rotting leaves. [photo 8] I could just see successfully getting up the crack and then "buying the farm" on slippery leaves, or the mud beneath.
Ed cleaned the route and snagged the FA.
Location
As the hiking trail from ADK lodge/Marcy Dam drops down to the lake, look for a climber's path up to the right. [NOTE: See comment 6/2/2020....it seems the climber's path may be a bit obscure these days. ]
The climb starts in, and is just left of the big, ugly corner/chimney (FA R Hall & S Matz 1993 or 94, somehow I don't think anyone wants to repeat the ugly corner/chimney!)
Protection
Std rack - medium cams and finger-sized nuts work well.
[Hide Photo] photo 5 - on crux, Chalk-Up Matilda, Avalanche Pass / Avalanche Mtn
[Hide Photo] Photo 8 - In 1994 the "V" was just packed with leaves. (This photo taken Sept 2005)
Plattsburgh
Rochester, NY
P.s I brought 10 draws and wished I had 12. There are a few full-on moves and I found the route to be a bit heady. Jun 3, 2020