Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Eric Chemello
Page Views: 122 total · 4/month
Shared By: Sic Nabo on Jun 21, 2016
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is fantastic and deserves more attention. Similar to its neighbor, Whiplash, but with a crux that is both more sustained and higher intensity. Travels through a beautiful bulge of smooth blank limestone that appears to have had giant lemon wedge chunks sliced out of it creating intricate, macro features that one cannot simply downpull.

Start on a pleasant slab and reach a good rest before a small roof pull. Once transitioned onto the vertical face, it is on for the next several bolts. Negotiate small pockets, slopey crimps, and smeary feet while fighting the quickly encroaching pump. A couple of tension-y sequences through undercling crimps above your head will test your worthiness and add to the fatigue. A good undercling is your only respite before the crux sequence, an off-camber power move requiring subtle body english. The bump into the largest lemon wedge is only about 6-inches, but is the hardest move you will pull today. After this, a jug rest and the route joins Bambi Slayer next door. 5.10 has never felt so pumpy.

Location

In the scary gully, just left of Whiplash.

Protection

17 Bolts. Gear down low in the easier section is optional. Long slings are nice for down low and for the last couple bolts. The rope drag/weight is real.

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An interesting note is that Eric apparently was calling this 13a while he was projecting it and surprised everyone by calling it 12c in the book. Take that how you will. It sounds pretty potent. I can’t wait to try it. Jun 10, 2018
Sic Nabo
  5.12+
Sic Nabo  
  5.12+
Evan, I can totally see that. It's stiff. Jun 11, 2018