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Rapture
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Eric Chemello |
Page Views: | 873 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Sic Nabo on Jun 21, 2016 |
Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This route is fantastic and deserves more attention. Similar to its neighbor, Whiplash, but with a crux that is both more sustained and higher intensity. Travels through a beautiful bulge of smooth blank limestone that appears to have had giant lemon wedge chunks sliced out of it creating intricate, macro features that one cannot simply downpull.
Start on a pleasant slab and reach a good rest before a small roof pull. Once transitioned onto the vertical face, it is on for the next several bolts. Negotiate small pockets, slopey crimps, and smeary feet while fighting the quickly encroaching pump. A couple of tension-y sequences through undercling crimps above your head will test your worthiness and add to the fatigue. A good undercling is your only respite before the crux sequence, an off-camber power move requiring subtle body english. The bump into the largest lemon wedge is only about 6-inches, but is the hardest move you will pull today. After this, a jug rest and the route joins Bambi Slayer next door. 5.10 has never felt so pumpy.
Start on a pleasant slab and reach a good rest before a small roof pull. Once transitioned onto the vertical face, it is on for the next several bolts. Negotiate small pockets, slopey crimps, and smeary feet while fighting the quickly encroaching pump. A couple of tension-y sequences through undercling crimps above your head will test your worthiness and add to the fatigue. A good undercling is your only respite before the crux sequence, an off-camber power move requiring subtle body english. The bump into the largest lemon wedge is only about 6-inches, but is the hardest move you will pull today. After this, a jug rest and the route joins Bambi Slayer next door. 5.10 has never felt so pumpy.
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