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Jersey Kitty
5.6,
TR, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
New York
> Powerlinez
> p. E End
> 9. Jersey Volunteers
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times). Do not block pump station access gates at any time. Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Interesting frictiony footwork (if you like that sort of thing) and also some interesting steeper moves.
Start on the Left side of the arete which forms the left edge of the Jersey Volunteers wall. Up across the arete onto a slopy ledge (without touching the tree on the ledge). Up along a crack, then continue on a ramp along the left side of a big left-trending corner. When reach a hump along the top of the right wall of the ramp, escape the ramp by a steep move right, then up to the top.
variation (easier): Instead start on the face just right of the arete, and move up and grab the tree on the horizontal ledge.
warning: For top-roping, make sure to set the top anchor far enough right (east) so that a climber who falls does not take a dangerous side-swing to the left. So then the climber must flip the rope several times as they climb.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Top-Roping: Straightforward to set up top anchor with static line. Hike+scramble around the right side to reach the top. Or for those with the skill and experience, climb the right-most route (class 4) of the Kitty Corners sector, then scramble right (east) with a down and up (a bit exposed).
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
[Hide Photo] Jersey Volunteers far Left from SW: kH. (Kitty Corners sec) Tangling w Yarn A. Jersey Kitty . . variations: v1=low, v2=high B. Stealth of the Greencoats C. Colonel Tye Db. Flakenstein E. Loy…
[Hide Photo] Kitty Corners right side from SW overview of routes: E. Tearing Out from Gift Wrap F. Chasing the Butterfly . . . vF easier start G. Springing onto the Shelf H. Tangling with Yarn K. Rolling…