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Sugar Mama
5.13c,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 16
votes
FA: Alli Rainey
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> French Cattle R…
> Grasshopper Wall
Access Issue: SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURES
Details
Raptor Closure 2026: Due to current raptor nesting activity, climbing routes on the Munitions and Oblivion climbing walls in Tensleep Canyon have a voluntary closure. The closures are effective immediately through Aug. 15 and the nest sites will be monitored throughout the summer.
The closure includes all climbing on the Munitions and Oblivion climbing walls in the Valhalla area.
Nesting raptors can be very aggressive, for your safety and the safety of the birds please respect the closure.
If you have questions, please contact Tracy Pinter, wildlife biologist, at 307-674-2600 or tracy.pinter@usda.gov. Follow us on X (@BighornNF) or like us on Facebook (US Forest Service – Bighorn National Forest).
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
'Sugar Mama' is a brilliant, yet overlooked, technical testpeice on the far left side of the Grasshopper Wall.
Start with a moderate, right angling crack/corner for about 30 feet to gain the wide blue streak above. Move slightly left over the bulge on good holds to reach a cool mailslot jug pocket. Rest here before firing up the remaining 35 feet of difficult, technical climbing, with no rests, all the way to the anchor.
The stone and movement are amazing.
Location
The far left side of Grasshopper Wall.
Between 'Escape from the Pod', and 'Super Mama'.
Starts in the obvious, right angling, white crack/corner system.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with drop-in lowering hooks.
Ten Sleep WY