Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m)|
|FA:||T. Bubb, J. Meir, 6/16 (?)|
|Page Views:||593 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 20, 2016 · Updates|
|Admins:||GRK, Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle|
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Start in the clean corner atop the huge boulder left of the route 'The Assassin.' Climb a few features to get up into the crack, place gear and head on up in the corner. Although it gets wide near the top, a few placements are available in the back of the crack, and the climbing quickly eases off the 5.9 grade. Finish up the corner into a chucky 2-2.5" (primarily) crack system that looks steeper from the ground... but holds abound. The climbing here is no harder than 5.8, and mostly 5.7 or below. Ride that to a gear belay on the summit, or just below on one of several shelves, according to what gear you have to set a belay with and what you see.
Bright red 'Western Columbine' flowers were everywhere up there in mid-June.
There are many options for a gear belay up top.
Scramble off to the left (easier, but then nasty trail) or right (long, more involved route finding to keep it 5.4), but then easy trail to the base.