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Routes in Animal Cracker Rock

Animal Cracker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J. Meir, 6/16 (?)
Page Views: 148 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is a new line on Animal Cracker that showed no sign of passage and we didn't leave much evidence of our ascent either. It's possible that it is an undocumented climb instead of an true first ascent. In any case, this is a good route and deserves some mention and attention.

Start in the clean corner atop the huge boulder left of the route 'The Assassin.' Climb a few features to get up into the crack, place gear and head on up in the corner. Near the top, it gets wide, but a few placements are available in the back of the crack, and the climbing quickly eases off the 5.9 grade. Finish up the corner into a chucky 2-2.5" (primarily) crack system that looks steeper from the ground... but holds abound. The climbing here is no harder than 5.8, and mostly 5.7 or below. Ride that to a gear belay on the summit, or just below on one of several shelves, according to what gear you have to set a belay with and what you see.

Bright red 'Western Columbine' flowers were everywhere up there in mid-June.

Location

Look up and left from Animal Cracker. There is a stack of Boulders below the arete to the left. This is below and left of a flake system that reaches the corner that reaches the handcrack. The top crack can be seen in the Bingham Guide between Routes 'A' and 'B', but is not shown as a route.

Protection

While the FA was done with nothing over 3.5", it is noted that there were very significant runouts. A rack including at least to #4 Camalot, or perhaps even a single larger piece is recommended. A few 2' slings will help keep the rope in line despite a deep placement or two. The top crack takes 2" gear, +/-.
There are many options for a gear belay up top.

Scramble off to the left (easier, but then nasty trail) or right (long, more involved route finding to keep it 5.4), but then easy trail to the base.

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