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Tigger Goes to the Enchanted Forest and Tears a Flapper on Pooh's Asshole
Sport, 70 ft,
Avg: 1 from 5
FA: Bob Value
> New River Gorge
> Meadow River Gorge
> S Side Crags
> Other Place
Access Issue: South side crags access issue.
As of now it seems that a logging company has placed boulders in the road out to the south side crags and they are impassible. This of course hinders access. Check with WaterStone on before heading out or use your own judgment.
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines: - DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues. -Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous. -consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Asinine name aside, this route would've been a nice 5.9 or 10 save for one blank section at the second bolt. A little boulder problem featuring a large-ish move to a sloping dish marks the beginning and end of the difficulties on this single-move wonder. In fairness, it does climb good Meadow River stone.
If you're a boulderer, a gimme hunter, or misread the guidebook and thought you were on an adjacent route, this climb is for you.
Right of D.D (10a), face before the arête.
Bolts + 2 bolt anchor. Earplugs so you never have to hear the route name.