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Routes in Land of the Shorties

1-8-7 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
El Fishador T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ghetto Toes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greatful Deadpoint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Half A Full Monte S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hopeful Monsters S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jawbone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mechanical Animals S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Monster Baiter S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pearl Jammin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Porcupining Away S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Shoot the moon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Short Steep Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sleeping Giant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sylvester Sidewalk S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Violet Sanctuary S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 18 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 211 total, 12/month
Shared By: BBQ on Jun 20, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A short, insignificant, mostly ignored route that just became a very big deal because, IT IS NOW THE 700th DESCRIBED SPEARFISH CANYON ROUTE ON MOUNTAIN PROJECT!

Everyone of us Black Hills climbers should write an elaborate tale about it, in the comments section below, and then laugh our asses off when those jack-off interns at Climbing Magazine plagiarize us again in one of their full length feature stories that they didn't even bother to research.

Why send a reporter into the field, or publish an original story by a local, when you can copy and paste off the internet? Want proof of how journalism is going straight to hell and there is nothing any English teacher can do about it? Click on this link, climbing.com/places/america…

And if that isn't enough to make you vomit with disgust, check out this fine example of copying the smarter kid's homework. I swear to God, I wrote at least half this article! And did I get a royalty check? NO! Grab a cup of coffee and start cross referencing this link climbing.com/places/spearfi…

Am I mad as hell? YES! Is there anything I can do about it? NO! Should I quit my bitching? Probably. At any rate, get on this route. It is more than likely the only Spearfish Canyon route where you can sit on the summit and read a magazine while you are on top of the rock.

Location

The route is located INSIDE a chimney on the right hand side of the Land of the Shorties Wall. And please don't think I am talking smack about this cute, little climb! The route is actually pretty darn fun for those who like a short, blue collar struggle that allows for a lot of body contact with the rock.

Protection

3 bolts. Closed anchors.

Photos

Rachel Disselkamp  
  5.7
This was my first chimney route and my first time on limestone--double whammy! It is a totally doable 5.6, but the movement felt very odd to me as a first timer. Stick clipped the second bolt since ground fall potential is high and I wasn't overly confident. Gets pretty tight near the top--body contortions necessary--but overall, it is a very unique route. Great spot for pics! May 30, 2017
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
BBQ I'd be mad too. I spend a lot of time prowling mp and climbing and I have noticed on a few occasions where they have plagiarized you intently. They skate through by referee to"a local said..." Tell ya what though, of the in-print magazines still in circulation I swear every time I open climbing I'm happy to see a SD shout out. Jun 20, 2016