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Routes in North Sister
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East Buttress WI3-4 M3-4 PG13 |
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KIDS AI4-5 |
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South Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow |
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Thayer Glacier Headwall WI1 M3 PG13 |
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West Face- Right T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3500 ft (1061 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,614 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Satein on Jun 19, 2016 |
| Admins: | Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
Start at the Pole Creek Trailhead head. About two miles in you will go off trail and start heading towards the east side of the North Sister.
You'll eventually make it to the Thayer Glacier. Once there make your way up and then choose a gully. The center one is the most direct. Depending on the gully you choose, this could be the crux. Depending the season this could be snow, ice, rock, or a mix of everything.
All of the gullies lead to a steep snow field. Continue up and slightly to the right. You should be able to see the summit block at this point. You will need to get to the other side of it though.
Once you have climbed around you will be greeted with some of the poorest quality rock possible. If it's frozen up you're in luck. If it's not then be ready to pull some rock out while climbing up to the summit.
Descent is either the way you came up or down the standard route.
You'll eventually make it to the Thayer Glacier. Once there make your way up and then choose a gully. The center one is the most direct. Depending on the gully you choose, this could be the crux. Depending the season this could be snow, ice, rock, or a mix of everything.
All of the gullies lead to a steep snow field. Continue up and slightly to the right. You should be able to see the summit block at this point. You will need to get to the other side of it though.
Once you have climbed around you will be greeted with some of the poorest quality rock possible. If it's frozen up you're in luck. If it's not then be ready to pull some rock out while climbing up to the summit.
Descent is either the way you came up or down the standard route.
Protection
In late spring the following was used: 2 pickets, set of nuts, a few small cams, a few ice screws, and pins.
The rock quality is so poor don't expect to be able to place much rock pro.
As of June, 2016 there are two 6mm fixed cord that run up to the summit. Once looked new, one looked old.
The rock quality is so poor don't expect to be able to place much rock pro.
As of June, 2016 there are two 6mm fixed cord that run up to the summit. Once looked new, one looked old.
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