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Routes in Karaweik Wall

Brexit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Colombière S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Die Kleine Hexe (The Little Witch) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elephant Leather S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
FMA (First Male Ascent) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Ridge Recollection S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monet's Rising Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mosaic S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Royal-D S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sensei S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
View, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Andrew Riley (Bolted by Andrew and Katie)
Page Views: 108 total, 6/month
Shared By: Andrew Riley on Jun 19, 2016
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This is a religious site. Access in this area depends on being respectful and keeping up good relationships with the monks. Be overly respectful and nice. It also wouldn't hurt to donate. Details
Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks. Details

Description

Best rock on the wall once you get to the consistent headwall. Stick clip the first bolt or climb up a small tree to clip the bolt. The crux is right off of the ground with tough moves to reach a ledge. The crux is very height dependent and will vary greatly based on if the climber can reach the upper good holds or not. If you want to climb the route without this beginning boulder problem you can easily step up on a tree and skip the crux. Trend up and left on the slab, climb through a balancy bulge, and then enjoy the consistent 5.10 climbing up the headwall on beautiful sculpted stone. Make sure to take in the amazing view at the anchors.

Location

Middle of Karaweik Wall. Number 8 on the Karaweik Wall right topo photo. Shares the start and first couple of bolts with 'Brexit' and 'Monet's Rising Sun.' The start is in front of a small cave overhang towards the middle of Karaweik Wall. After you clip the first two bolts head left for the third bolt and up the face.

Protection

12 bolts and 2 ring anchors. Stick clip the first bolt or climb the tree to clip it. Stainless Steel Wave bolts installed on 06/19/16.

Photos

Katie Riley  
 
I got pretty pumped by the time I got to the top, and I wasn't expecting that! It eases up at the perfect time, for a nice jug haul to the finish. A bit of spice from a few tenuous slab moves at the bottom and a tenuous clip (for me, height dependent). Really enjoyed the little boulder problem at the bottom. Jan 16, 2017